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Jul 18, 2023

Saks Potts Copenhagen Spring 2024 Collection

COPENHAGEN SPRING 2024 By Laird Borrelli-Persson Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks were just 21 when they started their label in 2014 and became instant It Girls on the popularity of their candy-colored

COPENHAGEN SPRING 2024

By Laird Borrelli-Persson

Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks were just 21 when they started their label in 2014 and became instant It Girls on the popularity of their candy-colored fur-trimmed coats. People are still talking about those pieces, but the brand has since phased out fur altogether and has moved on to a “wardrobe” approach to dressing, with a particular emphasis on leather outerwear and carpenter-style pants. 070 Shake was recently spotted in SP jeans on an outing with Lily Rose Depp, while Kylie Jenner wore one of their wispy silk halter-neck party dresses in July.

From the looks of their Instagram account, this well-connected duo lead charmed lives; as if to prove that point, the rain predicted to fall on the outdoor seaside setting of their spring 2024 presentation mostly stopped. Saks Potts has become known for incredible show venues, each of which amplifies an aspect of their lives. Last season it was Tivoli Gardens; this one was held in the suburb of Charlottenlund, where the pair, who have known each other since they were five, passed happy summers splashing in the water and having treats at the circular cafe, Horden Rund (Around the World), from which the new collection takes its name.

“What is super interesting and fun with this location is that normally we design a collection and then we find a location after,” said Potts at a preview, but “this time we actually found the location [first.]” Saks added: “the main thing that we had in our minds when we started up the collection was travels and summertime.” From there they imagined what a woman might pack for vacation.

The designers made a convincing case for swimwear as ready-to-wear, pairing a bikini top with skirts long and short, and a maillot with cropped pants. Shirting is an SP speciality and the clear sequins applied to a brown and white striped cotton was a nice way to transition that look into something dressier. They also revived the dress-over-pants look, a Scandi-style staple. One of the hero pieces was the pair’s take on the pique polo shirt, in sherbet hues. Coming on the heels of the non-jean jeans at couture, there was a terrific “denim” set made of printed leather, the jacket with a fresh collarless shape. Metallic silver pants gathered above the ankle had a festive feeling.

As a complement to their wardrobe collections, Potts and Saks have developed what they call a uniform offering of keep-forever classics, like a pleated Harris tweed skirt, and these pieces were shown alongside the new season looks. The intent in showing best-selling pieces season after season is to drive home the point that clothing can hold its value over time, which is one way to approach sustainability. That’s admirable, if a bit repetitive, and the end result is that their seasonal message was diluted.

Whether a striped polo with a pleated leather top was meant to be subversive or just fell short of being the right kind of “off” probably depends on who is looking. That being said, Saks and Potts are aspirational figures in terms of style and lifestyle. This season featured a collaboration with the Italian company Oscalito on fine ribbed knits with scalloped stitching. Not only are these covetable garments, they allow us to understand better what delights these designers, much like their choice of locations speaks to their friendship.

The most effective looks were the ones that most seemed to reflect the designers’ worlds. Saks and Potts seem to have a natural feeling for reinterpreting and citifying casual essentials, like the boyfriend shirt or pajama pants, in ways that can make any day, home or away, feel like a vacation. It’d be nice to see them travel further in that direction.

Copenhagen Spring 2024

Copenhagen Spring 2024

Copenhagen Spring 2024

Copenhagen Spring 2024

Copenhagen Spring 2024

Copenhagen Spring 2024